Shooting shotguns and shooting handguns are two very different sports but the more I get into handguns the more similarities I find between the two.
For example, while at a steel shoot at Paul Bunyan Rifle & Sportmen’s Club we ran across an interesting stage. It had three steel plates: one positioned on the far left, one straight in the center, and one on the far right, to the extent that it pushed the 180 but didn’t break it. The course of fire was two shots on each of the side plates and one shot on the center plate. What was most interesting about this particular stage was listening to how everyone was planning to shoot it: what would be fastest? Do you stop on the middle plate? Do you try and swing through it?
The same rules of swing and momentum apply to pistol shooting that do to shotgun shooting. You have to consider the amount of time lost if you pause your swing just as you have to consider how a lack of follow through is going to kill the momentum of your pattern when shooting a skeet bird. Of course I’m not experienced enough for this to really affect me right now.
However, this week I managed to figure something out about the two sports that did directly affect my shooting: when you’re shooting skeet the only thing you want to see is the bird. The only thing I want to think about is that bird. If I look at anything else, if I think about anything else I won’t hit the bird. It’s the same thing with handguns, except all I want to see is the front sight and all I want to think about is having a smooth trigger pull. I’ve found that if that’s all I’m focused on then, like hitting the skeet bird, I’ll hit my target.
There are few things in this world finer than a customized double action revolver. I’ve been shooting my 625 for quite some time now, and had reached a point where my skill at action jobs wasn’t sufficient to tune the gun up any further. I can replace springs and mess with screws, but to give it a really good action job I had to send it somewhere.
The problem is that sending this particular gun anywhere is like sending one of my children away. I won my first anything of any significance with this gun, so the thought of shipping it off to some gunsmith filled me with dread. I instead pursued a local solution, getting in touch with the gunsmith at West Coast Armory in Bellevue, Washington. I didn’t want a whole lot done to the gun; just have the action lightened up, the internals all polished, the hammer bobbed and the charge holes lightly beveled. The other big concern was that the gun has to be reliable with factory ammo; I don’t handload and crush seat only Federal Primers, so if I’m using the 625 to review some .45 ACP ammo from BVAC it has to go “bang”.
The gun turned out very well. The gunsmith at WCA polished all the internal parts, bobbed the
bobbed hammer and chamfered charge holes
hammer and gave it a matte finish, as well as lightening up the action without sacrificing trigger return speed.
Of course, the problem with a really good revolver action job and tune-up is that I can expend millions of pixels explaining why it’s good, but that doesn’t really help most people “get” it, because sadly many shooters will never shoot a really nicely tuned revolver. A great revolver trigger is just, well it’s the best thing ever, and if you’ve never shot one, you’re going to have to trust me on that.
I took the 625 out to the range to give it a run with some of the aforementioned BVAC ammo. That’s full power factory ammo, not reduced loads for USPSA. With the old action that was about 4 pounds heavier, the fastest splits I could pull and maintain a reasonable standard of accuracy were in the .25-.30 range. With the new trigger, I was able to decrease those split times down to .20-.25 range, which over the course of a 150 round match could produce up to a 15 second time differential. 15 seconds in a major match is forever. More importantly, I had 100% ignition with the gun. No failures, no light primer hits, none of that stuff that makes revolver shooters shudder in horror. The gun worked, and it worked really well.
If you’re a wheelgun guy up in the Pacific Northwest/Seattle Area and you’re looking for an action job for your revolver, I do strongly recommend the gunsmith at West Coast Armory. Here’s the breakdown of all the work I had done on my gun:
All internal parts polished
hammer bobbed and matte re-finished
chamfered charge holes
lightened trigger rebound spring (I already had a Wolf mainspring in the gun)
Total cost for this work is $150, which is an absolute STEAL. If you want to tune up your wheelgun to get it ready for IDPA or USPSA competition, and you don’t want to travel far from the Seattle/Bellevue area, take it to Jim at West Coast Armory and he will do an excellent job tuning up your wheelgun.
That’s where I’ll be this coming June – San Luis Obispo, California for the IRC. I’ll be shooting Classic division with my S&W 686, but here’s a taste of what the action looks like through the eyes of two time champ Julie G.
I am very fortunate as a competitive pistol shooter that my introduction to the shooting sports was in NRA Collegiate Pistol; aka bullseye shooting. In fact, the first sport I ever won anything in was 10m Air Pistol, which by the way is the most difficult shooting sport I’ve ever participated in. The reason why that’s fortunate is because as I’ve stated elsewhere, accuracy is the foundation of all pistol shooting. It’s not just me that believes that either – guys like Brian Enos, Todd Green, and Larry Vickers all push that accuracy is the most important fundamental of shooting.
Don’t get me wrong, speed is important. But it doesn’t matter how fast you can yank your gun out of the holster if you can’t put the round where it’s supposed to go. At Pistol-Training.Com, Todd recommends that a shooter should be able to hit a 3×5 index card on command before trying to move to the “speed” portion of their skill development. That’s an excellent baseline, but don’t stop at just that. Keep pushing your accuracy skills, because there’s no such thing as too accurate. Can you hit a 2 inch circle on command at 5 yards? What about an 8 inch plate at 25? I would go so far as to suggest that a USPSA or IDPA shooter who cannot hit a pepper popper on command at 20-25 yards needs to go practice their accuracy a bit more.
Accuracy is the rock. Practicing accuracy is boring and it’s often not as fun as shooting super fast. Once you can hit a 3×5 card at 7 yards, try 10. Then 15. Push it out to 25. As I mentioned in the post below this, I’m a big fan of walkback drills as a warmup. Here’s a drill (and the recent results) that I run pretty regularly.
12 shots at 5 yards
Start with 12 shots at 5 yards at a 2 inch circle. At this distance, ideally you should get all the holes touching one another. I find that at the 5 yard start of this walkback drill is where I have the most trouble. A 2 inch target is still very small, and my front sight occludes the entire target meaning I must get a careful and deliberate trigger press on a DA revolver. Even the tiniest flinch will through a round out of the target area.
Next, the target goes out to 10 yards, although I’ve also tried it at 15. At 10 yards I’m firing 12 shots in a 3×5 index card, with the goal again to get all the hits in the card at 10 yards. Be harsh with yourself on the scoring – I have a hit that’s barely touching the black line.
12 shots at 10 yards
While that would count in a match, your standards for your practice should be higher than the standards that a match would impose on you. You’re not looking for speed on this drill, or any other pure accuracy drill, but it’s also important to not create detrimental habits. I have a very bad habit from bullseye shooting of not recovering from recoil properly when I’m shooting slowfire. I’ll let the gun rock up, and then manually bring it back down on target instead of controlling recoil during the shot like I should. Bad habit, and one that’s very difficult for me to break.
18 shots at 25 yards
The end of the walkback drill is at 25 yards usually, since that’s all I have access to at the indoor range where I do most of my practice. For this, I’m shooting 18 rounds at 25 yards. The goal here is an 8 inch circle, which is the size of the 10 ring on a Bianchi Cup target or the “-0” on an IDPA target. If you want to challenge yourself, shrink the target area. Try the 25 yard part on a 6 inch or 4 inch circle, or a 3×5 card.
Build your house on the rock of accuracy. Then start to incorporate speed in your training. If you can get the accurate hits on command at a given distance, all you need to do after that is get those same hits faster than the other guy, and you’re own your way towards IDPA (or USPSA) victory. A final note – if you find yourself practicing at distances where you can consistently get the hits you want, it’s time to push it out further. More and more I’m shooting at 20 and 25 yards.
If you live in the Seattle metro area and are interested in developing your pistol accuracy, you can sign up for my Accurate Pistol class. The next class is April 17th, and it’s an 8 hour, 750 round class that focuses on developing your accuracy as a pistol shooter. Cost is $250, and you can enroll by clicking this link.
A lot of people are restricted in where they can practice. Not everyone has regular access to an outdoor range, or a facility that allows holster draws, rapid shooting, reloads, etc. Let’s say that you’re restricted to a single lane at an indoor range, and that for the sake of practice it’s one of the ranges that allows holster draws. The situation is complicated further if you’re practicing for Enhanced Service Revolver or USPSA Revolver division with a gun that feeds from moonclips, as taking rounds in and out of moonclips on the range just isn’t a feasible practice idea. So what to do?
Single lane drill at West Coast Armory
What I do is break each moonclip down into a “chain-drill”. That is, within the six shots in the moonclip I’ll do several different drills that all “chain” off one-another. I usually warm up with a walkback drill or a 3×5 card drill. There is no such thing as being “too accurate” with your shooting, and a cold walkback drill is a great way for me to start my practice. At the end of the walkback drill, I’ll want to make sure I only fire 5 rounds out of the moonclip in the gun, leaving 1 round left in the gun. Then I’ll start my chain drill, which goes like this:
1-reload-1 drill – fire the last round in the previous moonclip, reload, fire 1.
Draw, fire 2 shots to the body
Draw, fire 2 shots to the body
From aimed in at the target, do another 1-reload-1
You can work this drill in all sorts of different combinations as well; sometimes I’ll do 1-reload-2 if I’ve noticed I’m struggling with follow-up accuracy. You can use a 1-R-2 drill as the initiator for this practice session:
1-reload-2
draw, 2 to shots to the body and 1 to the head (IDPA target)
aim in, 1-reload-2 drill
And repeat as needed. You may have noticed that I try to incorporate reloads as often as possible in my revolver shooting drills – if I have a 300 round practice session, I will spend 150 of those rounds on a variation of the above breakdown. Practicing reloads with a revolver is tremendously important, since that’s the thing you’re going to spend the most time doing during a USPSA or IDPA match with a revolver.
I have noticed that when I walk away from a match where I’m happy about my reloads, that usually means I’ve done pretty well. If I’m frustrated with my ability to get rounds in the gun, that usually means I’ve not done so hot.
Athena was a great guest, and it was a lot of fun to talk to her. I think I’m going to be calling her “Machine-gun Lee” at Steel Challenge though!
If you’d like to check out our older episodes and any of the past broadcasts of Gun Nuts Radio, hit up our show page at www.blogtalkradio.com/gunnuts – and don’t forget to join us live next week in primetime for another episode in the Top Shot Elimination Series!
I refuse to ever learn that “Caleb is right when it comes to guns”, because my life wouldn’t be full of as many awesome discoveries. Like the Ruger SR9c.
Ruger SR9c & Comp-Tac Speed Paddle
I was carrying the Model 60 on Monday and realized that I did not want to shoot Tuesday Night Pistol League with a 5 shot revolver. I still had one of the SR9cs in my bag from a little spiel I’d given to a women’s IDPA course a couple weeks ago about carry guns, so out it came. I had never shot it before. Months ago I shot the SR9 and found it fairly “meh” so I really was in no hurry to try the SR9c.
Despite my hesitations I found it to be a pretty neat little gun. It’s just nice to shoot. The trigger isn’t too short or too long, it hits where you point it (assuming you’re doing everything right) and it’s fairly ergonomic. It’s small, comfortable to carry and there’s really nothing to complain about. Which says a lot, because there are a lot of little guns with plenty to complain about.
This is what gets me: Here Ruger has a great gun that could be competitive in the striker fired concealed carry market, especially given its price point, and yet they don’t market it to death. Instead the front page of their website has ads for the LC9 and LCP which both would be better served melted down and made into uncomfortable folding chairs for support group meetings.
I am now a firm believer that the best way to lift the curse of the itty bitty 9 is to make all the people who want to waste their money on an LC9 carry and shoot the SR9c for a week.
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