S&W 625 Update

Yesterday, I dropped my 625 off at the gunsmith to have some minor tune-ups done. Because it’s the model with the pinned front sight, I decided it would be a better idea to let a professional install the new HiViz fiber-optic. While it’s there, I’m also having the charge holes chamfered to aid in reloading.

It’s currently wearing a set of Pachmayr stocks designed for L-frame guns, the effect being a small stock with an exposed backstrap and easily reached trigger. Later on, I’m going to have the single action notch taken off the hammer and convert the gun to DA/only. Once I get it back with the new sights, it will be all set up as the perfect gun for IDPA Enhanced Revolver Division.

As for the 646, I’ve ordered a set of Pachmayr stocks for that as well, and as soon as my ammo shows up I’m going to actually shoot the thing. It is a little weird in that the trigger is heavier on the Performance Center 646 than it is on the “stock” 625, which is apparently because N-frames have better triggers in general.

After my bought with the gunspaz yesterday, I’ve come to my senses and will not be buying a 686. What I would like to get would be either another 625, or a 610 to add some redundant back-up systems to my arsenal. Plus, I really like the way the 5 inch 625s handle.


  1. Does taking off the SA notch effect the trigger pull or any other function of the gun?

    Will it allow you to slamfire it from the hip to shoot WICKED FAST?

  2. I have the same question as Weer’d. I’m curious what the purpose is behind the SA notch change.

  3. RE: removing the SA notch – other than making the gun impossible to fire SA, it does almost nothing to trigger pull or function, save slightly smoothing the last tiny bit of DA. When firing in DA the hammer doesn’t come back quite far enough to engage the SA notch, but removing the notch and polishing the hammer at that point eases drag a tiny bit right at the very end of the stroke.

    A note on hammer spring tension: sometimes a gunsmith (or gun owner) will back out the hammer spring tension screw in the grip frame to ease spring tension and make the gun run smoother and trigger pull lighter. That’s an excellent way to test it to get the right spring tension, but the correct method of achieving that is to remove metal from the end of the tension screw so it can be screwed in all the way to remain tight. Anything else – including loctite – will eventually let the tension screw start backing out. If you’re going to do it yourself, buy two extra tension screws, and start filing one down .010″ at a time. When you get the dreaded “click” instead of a bang measure the screw, and file the second one down to .025″-.030″ longer and put it in tight. Keep the original tension screw in a safe place because you may need it if/when you change out hammer springs.

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