I’ve talked a lot about USPSA and IDPA guns here on the blog, and today I wanted to talk about a relatively simple way that you can build your own gun for Limited Division competition – you get all the pride of ownership of having put the package together yourself, and at the same time you will be able to learn a lot about the internal function of your firearm. The platform for our “do it yourself” Limited Gun isn’t going to be a 1911 – it’s actually going to be a Glock 35, which is the longslide “competition” Glock in .40 S&W. For the sake of the post, I’m going to assume that you want to turn your Glock into a full on custom rod-hot, so we’re going to do an example of taking the modifactions to the literal max.
To start with, you’re going to head over to Brownells and purchase their excellent “All-in-one” Glock tool, which is quite literally all the tools you’ll need to perform this build. Once you have the tools, you can then start on building the pistol. As an aside, I’m not going to go into detailed instructions on how to put all the parts together in this post, I’m merely going to list all the components for the uber-Glock.
Step 1 of the actual build is to get yourself a new frame. Bear in mind that all these steps are optional, as the Glock 35 out of the box is ready to go for Limited division in USPSA, but since we’re playing with pretend money, we might as well have some fun, right? So we go over to CCF Race Frames and pick up a new frame for the gun. Personally, I’d go with the alloy option, as it balances the desired attribute of making the gun a little heavier without making it too heavy.
Now that we have our frame, we need to do something about the trigger. Stock Glock 35s have a pretty good trigger out of the box for a Glock, but it’s not great. That means our next stop is Glockworx, to pick up one of their Fulcrum Ultimate Trigger kits. The neat thing about the Fulcrum is that it is actually 100% drop-in (this is also a neat feature of Glocks in general, i.e. they’re easy to work with), which means that just like every other step of this build, you can do it at home. The Fulcrum trigger also comes with a new striker for your Glock, which is designed to be lighter and thus make the gun function faster.
Now we have trigger and frame, so let’s move on to the upper half of the gun. Starting with the barrel, we toss out the factory Glock barrel and replace it with a Storm Lake Glock barrel. I have a Storm Lake barrel in my Glock 24, and it’s superbly accurate. This is a well made precision barrel, which is capable of delivering all the accuracy you’re going to need for IPSC.
We’re not done yet though, because this wouldn’t be the uber-Glock without the addition of a Caspian slide. Caspian is well known for their custom 1911s and parts, however their Glock slides are top of the line as well.
As we get near the end of the build, we still need to get a couple of key parts. While not in possession of a great website, IMSI does make some excellent springs for your Glock pistol, including a complete set for replacing the polymer guide rod in your Glock with a steel guide rod and 13 pound recoil spring. Once we have the new recoil spring, the last item we need for our competition Glock to be complete is to replace the factory sights mounted on the gun. Trijicon, Novak, and a whole raft of manufacturers make aftermarket sights for the Glock pistol, and it’s up to you to choose the model that best fits you. Personally, I tend to prefer an all black rear sight with a fiber optic front sight for competition; I’ve always had problems with the “three dot” system when I’m trying to shoot quickly. With one fiber optic (or tritium insert) I find that my eyes are naturally drawn right to the front sight, which is where they should be. With three dots, I’ve noticed a bit of hesitation in picking up the front post, as for some reason it takes my brain just a fraction of a second longer to figure out which dot it should be focused on.
That’s it for the uber-Glock build – all the parts and toys you need to turn your factory Glock 35, or Glock 22 into a hot-rod Limited Gun. I should also point out that all these modifications would make the gun not legal for use in IDPA. Additionally, the best part about all of these modifications? They’re all totally optional. Unlike a bone stock 1911 (which I am not knocking, so don’t kill me), a Glock 35 is ready to go for competition right out of the box.